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(No Model.) 5 SheetsSheet 1.

E. D. WEYBURN.

SEWING MACHINE.

No. 595,229 Patented Dec. 7, 1897.

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E. D. WEYBURN.

SEWING MAGHINB.

No. 595,229. Patented Dec. 7,1897.

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(No Model.) 5 Sheets-Sheet 3.

E. D. WEYBURN.

SEWING MACHINE. No. 595,229. Patented Dec. 7,1897.

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E. D. WEYBURN. SEWING MACHINE.

No. 595,229. PatentgdDeoJ, 1897.

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E. D. WEYBURN SEWING MACHINE.

No. 595,229. Patented Dec. 7,1897.

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lfrvnn States Patent @FFICE.

ELBERT DELOS IVEYBURN, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, ASSIGNOR, BY MESNE ASSIGNMENTS, TO TIIE UNION SPECIAL SEIVING MACHINE COMPANY,

OF SAME PLACE.

SEWING-MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent N 0. 595,229, dated December 7, 1897.

Application filed. October 26, 1896.

To an whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, ELBERT DELOS WEY- BURN, a citizen of the United States, residing at Chicago, in the county of Cook, State of Illinois, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing-Machines, of which the following is a description, reference being had to the accompanying drawings and to the letters and figures of reference marked thereon.

The present invention relates to an improvement in sewing machines, and especially to an attachment therefor for doing special work, such as hemming the tops of stockings and the like.

The object of the invention is to provide an improved construction whereby a stockin g or other garment may be supported, properly turned, and held in the desired relation to the sewing mechanism, whereby the garment is properly hemmed and when folded out to its normal condition practically no stitching is seen on the outside, or, in other words, a blind stitch is produced in the hem.

The present invention is illustrated in 0011- nection with the hemming of the tops of stockings, and the machine to which my special attachments are applied is herein illustrated as of the well-known Union Special Overseamer type shown in the Patent No. 401,294, granted April 9, 1889, to Muther and oodward but it will be understood that it is not desired to limit the invention either to such particular use or to limit the application of the attachments to any special type of machine.

In the use of the invention it is possible to dispense to a great extent with the skilled labor now necessary to perform work such as above mentioned, and, furthermore, the prodnot turned outis possessed of a greater degree of uniformity than similar work now on the market.

The invention is of course applicable to all classes of machines, either for straight sewing, zigzag sewing, or overstitching, and may be applied to either flat or cylindrical bed machines, as well as looping and fur-sewing machines.

In the accompanying drawings, which illustrate the invention, Figure 1 is a side eleva- Serial No. 610,072. (No model.)

tion of a sewingnnachine to which my invention is applied. Fig. 2 is an end view in perspective, the fabric-holding cup being removed in order to illustrate the gage and feeding device clearly. Fig. 3 is a sectional side View of the fabric-l1oldin g cup as a whole. Fig. at is an upright view showing the two truncatechcone-shaped inner parts of the cup separated. Fig. 5 is a top plan View of the fabric-holding cup with the upper part re moved. Fig. 6 is a sectional side view of a portion of the cup, showing the'fabric in position to be operated upon by the needle. Fig. 7 represents detail views of the fabricimpaling pins and their pivotal supports. Fig. 8 is a side elevation of a portion of a sewing-machine, showing an automatic stopping arrangement which I have devised for use in connection with the fabric-holding cup. Fig. 9 is a View similar to Fig. 1, but with the upper part of the sewing-machine broken away and illustrating another arrangement of supporting-bracket for the cup and a form which under certain circumstances is preferable to that illustrated in Fig. 1. Fig. 10 is a trans verse section of Fig. 9 on line 10 10; and Fig. 11 is an end view of the bracket, showing the means for attaching the antifriction-rollers.

In the drawings, A represents the bed-plate of a sewing-machine; B, the needle-lever; C, the needle-bar, carrying an eye-pointed needle, and the needle-bar in addition to its up ward-and-downward movement is given a vi bratory movement to make a zigzag stitch, this vibratory movement being imparted to it by the mechanism shown in said Patent No. 401,294c above referred to. The underthread-carrying looper is of the ordinary type used in the Union Special chain-stitch machines and has the usual four motions.

The throat-plate of the machine is shown at 1 and is provided with a feed-dog slot and a needle-slot, the needle-slot having a tongue (notshown) extendinginto it, across the plane of which tongue the needle vibrates, laying its thread thereupon. The side of the throatplate toward the lefthand end of the machine is chamfered 011', as shown, and the bed-plate of the machine is provided with an opening to allow for the reception of the fabric-holding cup, which willbe hereinafter referred to.

Of necessity on the machine shown the fabric-holding cup in order to be brought close enough to the needle and yet clear the pivoted needle-bar-operatin g frame 3 must be arranged on an incline, as shown in Figs. 1 and 8, and for this reason the feed-dog 4: of the machine, which is much wider than is usually constructed, is formed on an incline, and the face of the roller presser-foot 5 is formed on a corresponding incline, so that said feed-dog and roller presser-foot may squarely embrace the fabric-holding cup and throw the same around in the forward feed movement of the dog 4.

To the forward end of the bed-plate of the machine is adjustably secured a bracket 6, which supports a pivoted spring-plate 7, here shown as made in horseshoe shape,this springplate being arranged to stay open or closed, as desired, under the pressure of the spring, and being adapted when in raised or closed position to bear against the rear edge of the fabric-holding cup, thus with the roller presser-foot and feed-dog to prevent it from wabbling or getting out of desired position. The bracket 6 is adjustable by means of the slots and set-screws 8 9.

I have found in practice that the bracket 6 and spring-plate 7 are of special utility when the machine is arranged so that the needlebar works practically in a horizontal position, the fabric-holding cup or cylinder being supported in a practically vertical position, and it will be understood that such arrangement of machine-such, for instance, as illustrated in the patent to Muther, No. 469,525may be used and the fabric-holding cup applied thereto.

The fabric-holding cup is represented as a whole by the numeral 90, and it is provided with an annular band or hoop 10, which slides up and down on the outside of the cylinder 11, this cylinder being provided with a solid ledge or ring 12, against the under side of which the inwardly-turning flange 13 of the hoop 10 fits when in its raised position, thus limiting the upward movement of said hoop. This hoop is intended as a gage for the width of the folded hem and also, when the fabric has been impaled on the pins in the manner hereinafter described, acts as a sleeve to push the fold of the hem upward and over the needle-points to a position opposite the upper end of the cylinder. The lower flange of this hoop is provided with openings, which may be brought into registry with lugs 14 on the cylinder, whereby said hoop may be lowered or moved to the rear end of the cylinder; but when in its upper position and when said openings are out of alinement with the lugs let the said hoop cannot be moved to any lower point than the plane of the upper portion of said lugs.

Upon the inside of the cylinder or cup are arranged ears or lugs 15, to which are pivoted levers 16, carrying on one end impaling pins or points 17, adapted in the swinging of the levers to roject throu h 0 enin s in the e-'.

P a P a riphery of the cup or cylinder to engage the fabric placed therein. To properly manipulate these swinging levers for the purpose of causing them to alternately engage and release the fabric, Iprovide within said cup the parts shown in Fig. at, consisting of an upper truncated-cone-shaped cylinder 18, formed at its upper end to snugly fit the inside of the cup or cylinder 11 and at its lower end formed to fit within the upper end of the lower truncated-cone-shaped cylinder 19,bein g provided with a lug 20, registering with a slot or groove 21 in the lower cylinder, and being adapted when turned to wedge upon a cam-s urface 22, formed in the inside of the lower cylinder. (See Fig. 4.) A stop 23 limits the movement of the upper cylinder in the opposite direction and shows to the operator the point when the lug in the upper cylinder is in registry with the slot or groove in the lower cylinder, in which position it can be removed. By this construction when the two parts are put together they form practically a rigid inside cylindrical body adapted to be raised and lowered by the rim 24, fitting tightly within the lower end thereof. Said inside cylindrical body by reason of the oppositely inclined faces 25 and 26 of the two parts of the inside cylindrical portion form cam-surfaces whereby the levers carrying the impaling-points are swung in one direction or the other, thus forcin g said impaling-pins into or out of engagement with the fabric.

In the operation of the device the top of the stocking to be hemmed is passed through the cylinder, folded over the top' thereof, and drawn down onto the cylinder or cup 11 to the desired distance. The inner cylindrical portion is then drawn down, causing the camsurface 25 to bear upon the upper portion of the pivoted levers, thus forcing out the impaling-pins to engagement with the fabric. The hoop 10 is then raised up to the top of the cylinder, thus forcing the extreme upper edge of the stocking back upon itself, as shown clearly in Fig. 6. The cylinder is then placed upon the machine with its top between the feed-dog and the presser-foot, and in the operation of the feed-dog the latter will turn the cylinder and allow the needle of the machine to stitch the outside fold to the inside fold.

In Figs. 9 to 11 is shown an arrangement which I have found of value on this machine in that easier motion is given to the fabricholding cup, and in the form shown in these figures the bracket 6 is supported independent of the machine proper, being adjustable by means of set-screws O and having an upwardly-extending inclined part D, having elongated slots I), through which slots passes a bolt or shaft a, carrying rimmed rollers E, the shaft being secured to the bracket by means of nuts F screwed on the shaft (1. The flange H of the cup fits between the rims of these rollers and in its movement is guided thereby with a minimum amount of friction.

It will also be seen that by adjusting the rollers toward the centerof the bracket the lower end of the cup will be raised to any desired position in the accommodation of different thicknesses of fabric, and in addition will leave an opening between the bracket and the bed of the machine, so that the lug 35 will have a free passage and the levers that act in connection with it may be operated to better advantage.

As a further and special improvement in machines of this character I have provided a gage or guide 28, herein shown as adjustably attached to the hinged cloth-plate cover 29, this gage fitting in close proximity to the presser-foot and having a cut-out portion 30 to allow for the vibratory movement of the needles and having a groove 31, formed on the arc of a circle concentric with the circle of the upper or right-hand edge of the cylinder when in operative position. This gage or guide has at its outer end a fiat portion 32, which bears upon the fabric arranged on the cylinder and takes any creases out of the same. It also has a curled-up portion 33, which acts to force back the extreme outer edge of the fabric provided it should extend beyond the edge of the cylinder, or, in other words, the guide has the projecting end 32, which lies against the outside fold of the fabric, and the portion 33 as the stocking is car ried around on the cylinder turns over the upper edge of said stocking upon the cylinder and by means of the groove in the guide keeps said upper edge of the stockingin place until the needle of the sewing-machine sews it to the inside fold.

As a still further improvement in machines of this character I have provided an automatic device which stops the cylinder when its cycle has been completed. To accomplish this result, I have provided on the exterior of the cylinder a lug or cam projection 35, which is made to act on a lever in connection with what I term the sewing-machine motor. The motor may be of any approved construction, that shown in Fig. 8 of the drawings at 36 being of a well-known construction and comprising a series of suitably-connected poweractuated pulleys carried by a rod a, pivotally supported at Z) and connected at c to a lever 43, pivoted at (Z, said lever being normally held in an elevated position by the spring 45, thus also holding elevated the pulleys 36, thereby slackening the driving-belt c and preventing the driving of the machine through that medium. The cylinder is placed in the machine with the lug 35 bearing upon the rear of lever 37, as shown in Fig. 8. This lever is pivoted at f and is provided with a notch or recess in its lower end, with which engages one end of a pivoted latch 38, which is provided with a shoulder adapted to engage a hook 39 on the end of rod 40. A'handle 47, connected to rod 40 and projecting through the bed-plate at a convenient point, is employed to force the rod 40 forward, thus compressing spring 44., carried thereby between said handle and the rod-bearing, far enough to allow the latch 38 to drop into engagement with hook 39. This action draws the pulley 42, which is pivoted to the bedplate and also to the rear end of rod 40, down upon lever 43, thereby depressing the latter and the motor connected therewith, which results in drawing the driving-belt taut and enabling the machine to be driven thereby. The machine feeds the cylinder around in the direction of the arrow until the lug or cone 35 comes in contact with lever 37, which upon being moved sufficiently trips the latch 38, thus releasing rod 40, which in turn elevates the pulley 42 by the pressure of spring 44., resulting in the elevationof the lever 43 and motor 36 by the spring 45 and the slackening of the driving-belt e. The machine is thereby stopped.

Various minor modifications and changes in the construction and arrangement of the parts of this apparatus may be made without departing from the spirit of my invention, and it will be understood that far as the broad features are concerned I. do not wish to be limited to any such details.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

.1. The combination with a sewing-machine, comprising a stitch-forming mechanism,and a feeding mechanism; of a removable, rotatable work-holder supported upon the bed-plate of the machine, and having means for folding the body and presenting said folded body and the edge of the work directly to the action of the stitch-forming mechanism; substantially as described.

2. Awork-holderforsewing-machinesponr prising a cylinder; an annular, sliding band; and means for retaining the band upon the cylinder and for limiting its sliding movement thereon, substantially as described.

3. Awork-holderforsewing-1nachines,comprising a cylinder carrying impaling-pins, and an annular sliding band for cooperatin g with the pins to hold the work, substantially as described.

4. Awork-holder for sewing-machines,comprising a cylinder having pivoted impalingpins, and means for actuating said pins to project them into the work, substantially as described.

5. Awork-holderforsewing-machines,comprising a cylinder having pivoted impalingpins, and means within the cylinder for actuating the pins to project them into the work and to withdraw them therefrom, substantially as described.

6. Awork-holder forsewingmachinesmom prising a cylinder having pivoted impalingpins, means to actuate said pins to project them into the work, and independent means for withdrawing them from the work, substantially as described.

7. A work-holder for sewing-machinesmom prising a cylinder having pivoted impalingpins, and means for actuating said pins including two truncated-cone-shaped slides arranged within the cylinder and joined at their planes of truncation, substantially as described.

8. A sewing machine comprising stitchforming mechanism; a feeding mechanism including afeeddog having its gripping-stir face inclined with respect to the horizontal plane in which it has its feed movement; a presser foot; and a Worksupporting cylinder having its axis arranged at an angle corresponding to the inclination of the feeddogs surface, substantially as described.

9. A sewing-machine comprising stitchforming mechanism; a feeding mechanism including a feed-dog having its gripping-surface inclined with respect to the horizontal plane in which it has its feed movement; a presser foot having its cooperating surface similarly inclined; and a work-supporting cylinder carried by the machine-frame with its axis arranged at an angle corresponding to the inclination of the feeddogs surface and in position to cooperate with said foot and dog for feeding the work, substantially as described.

10. In combination with an organized sewing-machine; an adjustable bracket secured thereto; a work-holder supported by said bracket and sewingmachine bed in operative relation to the stitching and feeding mechanisms; and means for preventing displacement of said holder during the operation of the machine, consisting of a pivoted spring-controlled, clamping-plate, engaging the rear end of said holder, substantially as described.

11. In combination with an organized sewing-machine; a work-holder for presenting the work to the stitching mechanism; and means arranged in advance of the stitching mechanism for smoothing and uncurling the edges of the work and also for guiding and inturning said edges, substantially as described.

12. In combination with an organized sewing-machine; a cylindrical work-holder; and a guide arranged in advance of the stitching mechanism and curved to conform to the periphery of the holder, and having means for smoothing and uncurling the edges of the work and also for guiding and inturning said edges, substantially as described.

13. The combination with a sewing machine, comprising a stitch forming and a feeding mechanism; of a cylindrical, rotatable work holder supported upon the bedplate of the machine and having means for folding the body and presenting said folded body and the edge of the work directly to the action of the stitching mechanism; and an automatic stop mechanism controlled by said holder, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I affix my signature in presence of two witnesses.

ELBERT DELOS XVEYBURN.

\Vitnesses:

Crrns'rnn MONEIL, JAMES R. TROWBRIDGE. 

